I removed the music wire from the housing so that I could work on straightening it. I used a pair of vice grip seamer plyers to grab the wire and then my fingers and thumb to bend the wire against is current bend. This works to increase the radius of the wire to about 24 inches. I worked the ends of the wire a bit more to try and get straight sections at the end.
Next I located the trim tab for the elevator in order to check the fit to the trim control wire (music wire). The trim tab does not have the hole in it for the control wire so I located the drawing for the tab (SNX-T07). The drawing calls up a 5/64 inch diameter hole for the control wire. I drilled the hole in the trim tab.
I installed the trim tab on the elevator and proceeded to make the “Z” bend in the music wire to connect the music wire to the trim tab. After connecting the trim tab I shortened the music wire in the cabin at the trim tab control lever. Then I secured the music wire to the trim control.
Today I spent some time working on the flight controls. I had previously order some 24 gauge music wire and today I installed it in the cable housing. The cable housing was made from bicycle cable housing used for brake cables. This is very similar to the housing called up but actually has a teflon liner to provide smooth movement. The music wire was ordered online from www.pianophile.com. I purchased a wire cutter for the music wire from my local Princess Auto store. The music wire had a curvature to it that was about 12 inches in diameter. This worried me a bit but after inserting it into the already installed housing there did not seem to be a problem.
I installed the plastic pushing in the aft push rod support channel and then moved on to the forward support channel.
The slot I had previously cut in the channel was not wide enough for the flange on the plastic bushing so I enlarged the slot width and opened up the radii at the ends of the slot. Next, I cut a piece of channel for the plastic bushing and then drilled and sanded a hole in it for the bushing. Finally, I re-fit the push rod for the elevator and temporarily secured the bushing support channel to check the fit.
I noticed while fitting the elevator push rod that it would be impossible to remove the push rod once the support channels were riveted in place. While removing it might be an unlikely requirement I just felt that it should be removable. After giving it some thought I realized that it might be possible to remove and install if I changed the front most vertical support to include a slot for installation purposes. This would facilitate later removal. The slot could be covered over with a single hole in a second piece of channel installed with removable fasteners from the back side. I thought about installing the entire channel with removable fasteners but these could be difficult to reach and the channel was already drilled for rivets.
I removed the channel and then installed the push rod. Next I marked the channel to the height of the slot. With the channel removed I drilled a series of holes in it and then cut out the slot. I filed and sanded the slot and the tested it out. It seemed to work well. Next I will need to make the removable piece with the single hole in it.
I removed the push Rod and marked it for drilling. I had to go back to the C03 drawing for the location of the holes. I marked the holes in C03-05 half and drilled them using my drill press. I setup a couple of 1×1 angles to assist with the alignment of the tube. After drilling the -05 half I inserted an aligned the -06 half. I then drilled half of one hole in the -06 half of the push rod.
The next thing I did was to reinstall the push Rod and use a cleco to through the single hole through both parts to verify the correct alignment. It turned out that I was off by about 1/8″. I removed the push rood and drilled a second hol in the -06 half. This time I was able to get full movement of the elevator. The control triangle was still very tight to the rivets on the spar tunnel.I decided that I could flatten some of these rivets a bit using my bucking block inside the tunnel and a hammer on the end of the rivets that were protruding.
Today I worked on the installation of the elevator push rod. I started by opening up the hole in the in the rear spar carry through channel. This was to allow more adjustability in the push rod. I was finding the with the stick full aft the push rod bellcrank would contact the channel. I opened the bottom of hole by about 3/16″.
Next I installed the push rode and tried to find a position that left a bit of clearance at each end of the stick movement fore and aft. I applied masking tape to the push rod and marked a position that was 3/4″from the overlapping point of the two parts of the push rod. Next I marked an alignment line on the top on bottom. This will allow me to line up the two parts outside of the fuselage when I drill the two holes through them to connect the two pieces.
I then found the remaining channels for the fuselage so that I could mark them for the push rod hole. When I got out the channels I discovered that I had previously put the holes in them.
I clecoed the channels in place in the fuselage and reinstalled the elevator push rod. The hole in the rear most channels seemed okay but the hole in the front channel appears to be too high. I think I will see if I can make a new front channel with the hole about 3/16” lower.
The next step will be to remove the push rod and drill the three holes required for the AN3 bolts to secure the to pieces together.
I worked a bit on the controls today. First I moved one washer on each end of the link between the control triangle and the intermediate connection from the outside to the inside. This reduces the possibility of the link rubbing at each end and enters it a bit better in the hole under the rear of the seat.
I also started the installation of one of the rudder cable by installing it through the fairleads on the left side of the fuselage both front and rear.
Today I have started to work on finishing the windshield installation. Before starting I marked the bow strap where I wanted to extend it to better fit with the canopy. I took a number of photos to explore this area. After opening the canopy I put a ratchet strap on the windshield and started by removing the fasteners between the windshield and windshield bow. Next I removed the clecos.
With all the fasteners and clecos removed I was able to carefully remove the windshield and windshield bow strap. Once the windshield was removed I removed the protective covering from the forward half of the glare shield and then cleaned up the aluminum with some acetone to remove the glue and some scotchbrite for a few minor scratches.
I discovered a couple of rivets that I had left out. One on each side where the two halves of my custom glare shield join. At first I thought I would see if I could get some stainless steel washers for the underside of these rivets. I could not find any at my local Home Depot that were the correct size so I decided to make some backing plates out of aluminum. These were made from some 1/16″ 6061-T6 material that I had and were cut to 3/4″ x 3/4″ square with a #30 hole in the center. I then used a couple of CCP-44 rivets to finish fastening the glareshield in place.
I also discovered that the stainless steel fasteners I had ordered for the glare shield were too short. I’ll need to order some new fasteners.