I reinstalled the rudder pedals today. I used a block of wood to support the pedals as I fitted the support blocks under the fuel tank. It was a bit fiddle to get the bolts in but I succeeded. I tightened the bolts but did not use the torque wrench today.
With the holes for the rudder springs drilled I was ready to start reassembly. First I vacuumed out the floor under the instrument panel and cleaned up the excess grease.
Next I put the fuel tank into place under the glare shield. This was much easier than removing it. I started to work at securing the tank straps. At this point I had a look at the plans and thought that I had forgotten to put felt onto the tank. I removed the tank and then remembered that there were special instructions for the root molded tank. I found the instructions on the Sonex website and sure enough, felt was not required. I repositioned the tank under the glare shield and proceeded to install and tighten the strap bolts. I had to remember to install the fuel tank cap and the drain valve in order to close up the tank and keep contaminates out.
Today I continued with the removal of the rudder pedals in order to provide access for the drilling of the holes for the rudder pedal springs. I started by removing the bolts the secured the rudder cables to the rudder pedal connecting link. After removing the pedals I cleaned up the cockpit floor. I pulled the fuel line up against the fire wall and then proceeded to remove the fuel tank.
Removing the fuel tank was a bit of a puzzle. I had to remove the fuel outlet in order to have clearance under the instrument panel crossmember and over the spar carry through tunnel. After a bit of fiddling it came out.
Next I worked to get the rudder spring holes marked. This was a bit challenging but easier now that the fuel tank was removed. With the holes marked I needed to figure out how to drill them. After trying to fit in my right angle drill and finding it was too large I started looking for smaller right angle drills. This seemed like an expensive idea so as I was looking through my tool box I came across my 12 inch long 18 inch drill bit. This was the solution.
I drilled the holes and while they were not exactly in the marked location they are both further from the edge of the angle which is actually better from a pull out point of view. I may have a bit of trouble getting the spring in but I think I can live with this.
I discovered that I did not drill the holes for the rudder pedal springs. I spent some time figuring out where the holes need to be drilled but with the fuel tank installed this location is very difficult to get too. I need to remove the fuel tank.
Before removing the fuel tank I installed the seat pan and removed the control stick. This was to provide me a place to work from.
With the seat pan installed I removed the fasteners from the fuel tank straps. Next I tried to drop the tank down below the stops holding it in place. I forgot about the fuel cap and it prevented the tank from moving. After removing the fuel cap I was able to pull the tank forward but I could not tip it down below lower instrument panel cross member. So, I put the tank back in place.
I’ll need to remove the rudder pedals to lower the fuel tank further. This will be my next step
I removed the music wire from the housing so that I could work on straightening it. I used a pair of vice grip seamer plyers to grab the wire and then my fingers and thumb to bend the wire against is current bend. This works to increase the radius of the wire to about 24 inches. I worked the ends of the wire a bit more to try and get straight sections at the end.
Next I located the trim tab for the elevator in order to check the fit to the trim control wire (music wire). The trim tab does not have the hole in it for the control wire so I located the drawing for the tab (SNX-T07). The drawing calls up a 5/64 inch diameter hole for the control wire. I drilled the hole in the trim tab.
I installed the trim tab on the elevator and proceeded to make the “Z” bend in the music wire to connect the music wire to the trim tab. After connecting the trim tab I shortened the music wire in the cabin at the trim tab control lever. Then I secured the music wire to the trim control.
Today I spent some time working on the flight controls. I had previously order some 24 gauge music wire and today I installed it in the cable housing. The cable housing was made from bicycle cable housing used for brake cables. This is very similar to the housing called up but actually has a teflon liner to provide smooth movement. The music wire was ordered online from www.pianophile.com. I purchased a wire cutter for the music wire from my local Princess Auto store. The music wire had a curvature to it that was about 12 inches in diameter. This worried me a bit but after inserting it into the already installed housing there did not seem to be a problem.
I installed the plastic pushing in the aft push rod support channel and then moved on to the forward support channel.
The slot I had previously cut in the channel was not wide enough for the flange on the plastic bushing so I enlarged the slot width and opened up the radii at the ends of the slot. Next, I cut a piece of channel for the plastic bushing and then drilled and sanded a hole in it for the bushing. Finally, I re-fit the push rod for the elevator and temporarily secured the bushing support channel to check the fit.
I worked a bit on the controls today. First I moved one washer on each end of the link between the control triangle and the intermediate connection from the outside to the inside. This reduces the possibility of the link rubbing at each end and enters it a bit better in the hole under the rear of the seat.
I also started the installation of one of the rudder cable by installing it through the fairleads on the left side of the fuselage both front and rear.
Today I have started to work on finishing the windshield installation. Before starting I marked the bow strap where I wanted to extend it to better fit with the canopy. I took a number of photos to explore this area. After opening the canopy I put a ratchet strap on the windshield and started by removing the fasteners between the windshield and windshield bow. Next I removed the clecos.
With all the fasteners and clecos removed I was able to carefully remove the windshield and windshield bow strap. Once the windshield was removed I removed the protective covering from the forward half of the glare shield and then cleaned up the aluminum with some acetone to remove the glue and some scotchbrite for a few minor scratches.
I discovered a couple of rivets that I had left out. One on each side where the two halves of my custom glare shield join. At first I thought I would see if I could get some stainless steel washers for the underside of these rivets. I could not find any at my local Home Depot that were the correct size so I decided to make some backing plates out of aluminum. These were made from some 1/16″ 6061-T6 material that I had and were cut to 3/4″ x 3/4″ square with a #30 hole in the center. I then used a couple of CCP-44 rivets to finish fastening the glareshield in place.
I also discovered that the stainless steel fasteners I had ordered for the glare shield were too short. I’ll need to order some new fasteners.