I reinstalled the rudder pedals today. I used a block of wood to support the pedals as I fitted the support blocks under the fuel tank. It was a bit fiddle to get the bolts in but I succeeded. I tightened the bolts but did not use the torque wrench today.
With the holes for the rudder springs drilled I was ready to start reassembly. First I vacuumed out the floor under the instrument panel and cleaned up the excess grease.
Next I put the fuel tank into place under the glare shield. This was much easier than removing it. I started to work at securing the tank straps. At this point I had a look at the plans and thought that I had forgotten to put felt onto the tank. I removed the tank and then remembered that there were special instructions for the root molded tank. I found the instructions on the Sonex website and sure enough, felt was not required. I repositioned the tank under the glare shield and proceeded to install and tighten the strap bolts. I had to remember to install the fuel tank cap and the drain valve in order to close up the tank and keep contaminates out.
Today I continued with the removal of the rudder pedals in order to provide access for the drilling of the holes for the rudder pedal springs. I started by removing the bolts the secured the rudder cables to the rudder pedal connecting link. After removing the pedals I cleaned up the cockpit floor. I pulled the fuel line up against the fire wall and then proceeded to remove the fuel tank.
Removing the fuel tank was a bit of a puzzle. I had to remove the fuel outlet in order to have clearance under the instrument panel crossmember and over the spar carry through tunnel. After a bit of fiddling it came out.
Next I worked to get the rudder spring holes marked. This was a bit challenging but easier now that the fuel tank was removed. With the holes marked I needed to figure out how to drill them. After trying to fit in my right angle drill and finding it was too large I started looking for smaller right angle drills. This seemed like an expensive idea so as I was looking through my tool box I came across my 12 inch long 18 inch drill bit. This was the solution.
I drilled the holes and while they were not exactly in the marked location they are both further from the edge of the angle which is actually better from a pull out point of view. I may have a bit of trouble getting the spring in but I think I can live with this.
I discovered that I did not drill the holes for the rudder pedal springs. I spent some time figuring out where the holes need to be drilled but with the fuel tank installed this location is very difficult to get too. I need to remove the fuel tank.
Before removing the fuel tank I installed the seat pan and removed the control stick. This was to provide me a place to work from.
With the seat pan installed I removed the fasteners from the fuel tank straps. Next I tried to drop the tank down below the stops holding it in place. I forgot about the fuel cap and it prevented the tank from moving. After removing the fuel cap I was able to pull the tank forward but I could not tip it down below lower instrument panel cross member. So, I put the tank back in place.
I’ll need to remove the rudder pedals to lower the fuel tank further. This will be my next step
Today I continued working on the brakes. I started by up drilling the 5/16 inch holes in the brackets for the master cylinder and temporarily mounted the cylinder so I could drill the hole in the floor for the inboard bracket. Next I drilled the pilot holes for the rivets in the floor for the inboard bracket. I trimmed the plastic film on the floor from around the mounting points in preparation for riveting. Once the floor was prepared I riveted the inboard bracket into place. With the bracket mounted I cleco’d the inboard bracket in place.
I finished up most of the work on the elevator push rod today. I completed the drilling of the filler plate for the forward vertical support of the push rod. I riveted in the nut plates and then installed the support and the filler plate. Next I completed the pushrod installation by joining the two section of the pushrod and installing the bolts at the pivot points. I torqued the pivot bolts and inserted the cotter pins.
I removed the music wire from the housing so that I could work on straightening it. I used a pair of vice grip seamer plyers to grab the wire and then my fingers and thumb to bend the wire against is current bend. This works to increase the radius of the wire to about 24 inches. I worked the ends of the wire a bit more to try and get straight sections at the end.
Next I located the trim tab for the elevator in order to check the fit to the trim control wire (music wire). The trim tab does not have the hole in it for the control wire so I located the drawing for the tab (SNX-T07). The drawing calls up a 5/64 inch diameter hole for the control wire. I drilled the hole in the trim tab.
I installed the trim tab on the elevator and proceeded to make the “Z” bend in the music wire to connect the music wire to the trim tab. After connecting the trim tab I shortened the music wire in the cabin at the trim tab control lever. Then I secured the music wire to the trim control.
Today I spent some time working on the flight controls. I had previously order some 24 gauge music wire and today I installed it in the cable housing. The cable housing was made from bicycle cable housing used for brake cables. This is very similar to the housing called up but actually has a teflon liner to provide smooth movement. The music wire was ordered online from www.pianophile.com. I purchased a wire cutter for the music wire from my local Princess Auto store. The music wire had a curvature to it that was about 12 inches in diameter. This worried me a bit but after inserting it into the already installed housing there did not seem to be a problem.
I installed the plastic pushing in the aft push rod support channel and then moved on to the forward support channel.
The slot I had previously cut in the channel was not wide enough for the flange on the plastic bushing so I enlarged the slot width and opened up the radii at the ends of the slot. Next, I cut a piece of channel for the plastic bushing and then drilled and sanded a hole in it for the bushing. Finally, I re-fit the push rod for the elevator and temporarily secured the bushing support channel to check the fit.
I noticed while fitting the elevator push rod that it would be impossible to remove the push rod once the support channels were riveted in place. While removing it might be an unlikely requirement I just felt that it should be removable. After giving it some thought I realized that it might be possible to remove and install if I changed the front most vertical support to include a slot for installation purposes. This would facilitate later removal. The slot could be covered over with a single hole in a second piece of channel installed with removable fasteners from the back side. I thought about installing the entire channel with removable fasteners but these could be difficult to reach and the channel was already drilled for rivets.
I removed the channel and then installed the push rod. Next I marked the channel to the height of the slot. With the channel removed I drilled a series of holes in it and then cut out the slot. I filed and sanded the slot and the tested it out. It seemed to work well. Next I will need to make the removable piece with the single hole in it.